Memory of Old Lusaka (The Undertaker)

From Great North Road

By: Joe Behrens

When working in Lusaka in the early 1940s, I remember the only local Blacksmith, Harry Bowmaker. He was of South African background and in addition to his trade, he also was the only undertaker in town. He was very fond of alcohol and one did not often meet him in an entirely sober state.

On occasions, when he had to act as an undertaker, he would only do so if his mother provided him with a bottle of whiskey beforehand. Then in the proper mood, he would deal with the body. Often, on his way with coffin and body in the hearse (a simple converted open van with a canopy) he would stop at the Carlton Bar for more refreshment and a boost of courage. The hearse with coffin and body was left outside the pub, guarded by a chimpanzee chained to the hearse. This proved quite an attraction to passers-by.

Although a kind man, he had a very loud and rough voice and children got frightened and made a big bend around him when coming across him.

This is the story of the chimp. During the war the South African Air Force made Lusaka Airport a staging point and crews often stayed overnight at one of the hotels in town. I stayed at the Lusaka Hotel and after dinner, guests used to get together over drinks. A crew just returning from up north reported having a baby chimpanzee, picked up in the Belgian Congo, locked in the toilet of their aircraft. They decided not to take it back to South Africa and came to an agreement with Sam Osrin, then the hotel manager, that he would take the chimp and keep him in an enclosure in the courtyard of the hotel.

Being the only resident present with a car, I took the crew to the airport late in the evening. Arriving there, all in good "spirits", we were challenged by the Askari armed guard who would not let us near the aircraft and threatened to shoot if we advanced further. He was finally convinced when the captain produced the key to the aircraft door.

The poor frightened baby chimp had made a terrible mess in the toilet, turning everything upside down! He was taken to the hotel and was kept in the enclosure for the amusement of guests and their children. However it grew into a big animal and the health authorities insisted that it should be removed to more secure accommodation.

Harry Bowmaker and his wife, living in Villa Elizabetta just outside Lusaka, had already a collection of various animals on their farm and so added the chimp to their little zoo. It became very tame and was said to regularly sleep with them in their bed.

Coming back to Harry's undertaking. He was always in an animated state from drink but in spite of a few mishaps he managed very well. On one occasion I remember, the then Governor of Northern Rhodesia, Sir John Maybin, died and Harry, not yet having forgotten the Boer War, was said to have been very rough on the body! He was buried the wrong direction, having the tombstone set on top of his head. No one else noticed except of few Jewish mourners, who noticed him being buried in their fashion.

As Harry got on in age, a more civilised undertaker, Ivor Montgomery took over.