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Category: On Heather Chalcraft's Travels

Western Province - Zambia

From Great North Road

Heather Chalcraft's trip to the Western Province - Zambia

It's a long straight road that goes on and on, past the satellite station at Mwambeshi

First stop was at Mukambi Lodge, just outside the Kafue Game Park, but on the banks of Arthur's beloved Kafue River

Next morning it was back on the road towards Mongu, over the Kafue Hook Bridge and past a Tsetse control

After arriving in Mongu, there was a mad dash to organise boats for the next day. Down at the harbour we found that the Royal Canoeing regatta from Lealui to Mongu Harbour had been completed and the paddlers were being entertained:

Then it was back to the guesthouse where we were staying to relax with a cold drink and look out over the Barotse Plains

Next morning, despite being assured that it never rains on Kuomboka day, was overcast and wet. But we were up before sunrise and set off for the harbour just as the sun was coming up, past the Town Council buildings and past the office of the Permanent Secretary for Western Province

By the time we came over the hill to turn left to the harbour, the sun was fully up and we had some more spectacular views of the plains,

the road leading down to the harbour,

the road which is being built to Kalabo (work has only just started)

and a had a chance to look around the harbour

Eventually we were on our way - the ninety minute trip through the channels to Lealui, with its varied birdlife;

past fishing villages, some still in use, some not;

some with animals;

past vessels of all different shapes and sizes;

and past a communications centre

Finally we reached Lealui

which was a hive of activity, with people of all different ages, shapes, sizes and colours;

and a postman who had lost his way.

There was music and dancing,

people preparing the Nalikwanda and loading it with the Litunga's property which must be carried with two hands

the Maoma Drums

and other musical instruments.

Then the paddles arrive and are given to each of the paddlers.

Finally, the Litunga makes his way down to the Nalikwanda

and they were on their way.

For us, it was time to get back to Mongu. Although how some of the boats made it, I'm not sure

but it seems that they did,

But for many, life went on as usual

That afternoon, a drive around Mongu:

We also took a drive around Limulunga where we saw what could be seen of the Litunga's palace there

and this old church

Later in the afternoon, it was time to go to Limulunga again to witness the arrival of the Litunga. But I must admit that rather than face the crowds, we headed down a bush path and kept well away from other people which meant that we didn't see the Litunga emerging from the Nalikwanda. We did get a good view of the Notila, the Matende and the Ntamikwa, the surveillance canoe paddled by the Litunga's mabuto (bodyguards),

more of the Nalikwanda,

the disruption to the proceedings when they struggled to break the small walls which are built when the water is low and they need to ensure there is enough water to carry the Nalikwanda forward

and a very enthusiastic gentleman who tried, singlehandedly, to push the Nalikwanda through the gap

Then it was back to the guesthouse to relax with a cold drink as the sun went down over the Barotse Plains (sorry Arthur but it's definitely not Kenyan - there are no thorn trees or giraffes and I've finally worked out how to use that spirit level)

Next morning, it was off to Senanga, and some views that Johnny Green will definitely recognise: Senanga Safari Lodge,

the Police Station,

the Prison and Reformatory,

and some that he probably won't recognise.

Some proof that agriculture does exist, even if things are a bit misshapen,

proof that the transport industry is flourishing

and the ass of Senanga

We did not forget the Zambezi River and the Barotse Plains

Monday morning was time to head off to Namushakende for some photos which Ian Singer will recognise: the Police Station,

the Post Office,

the house at the Mission

and a transporter going about his work

Then it was on to Sefula, with its church, the house where Francois Coillard lived, the old school building and a rock presented to the Mission in 1935 by the Lozi people to thank Lewanika for allowing Francois Coillard to establish the Mission there and to Francois Coillard for establishing the mission in 1885

After Sefula, it was back up to Mongu again, but time was getting on and we still had a long way to go, so very quick glimpses of: Mongu Prison, still very much in use

and the Barotse National School, also still very much in use

and a last glimpse of the floodplains.

Then we were on the long road home

with a short stop at a fishing village on one of the dambos where they were using a variety of methods: a net of sticks built across the dambo

and rod and line

although they had given up on the traditional fishing basket.

As always, when travelling in Zambia, people are keen to pose for a photograph, although the subject of this one didn't have a chance to see what he looked like when we took a quick look at it. It did however amuse the rest of the people in the village.

After a quick stop at the Kafue Hook Bridge for a police block,

we made it back to Mukambi Lodge and the Kafue River just as the sun was going down.

The next day when we reached this spot on the road, we knew we weren't far from Lusaka.

Contributed by Heather Chalcraft.

April 13, 2003

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