|
Livingstone Lark
Friday 26th to Sunday 28th September, 2003
Thank-you to all of you who organised, helped out, and attended the Lark. It was an unmitigated success, and a good time was had by all. This page will remain archived at this address.
One Special Request
Because I decided to hold this in Livingstone rather than Lusaka, I am having to do most of the arrangements by remote control. It also involves all sorts of logistical issues such as tables, chairs, crockery, cutlery, etc., which may have to be transported from Lusaka to Livingstone. In addition to that, hiring of crockery, etc. is not a simple pick up a telephone and arrange it all. Depending on the numbers, I am going to have to hire from various different places. Because of these logistics, I am asking people to let me know as soon as possible whether they will be attending or not. This is also important for availability of accommodation.
Friday, 26th September
On this evening I would like to arrange a sunset cruise and dinner on the African Queen, but this is dependent on a minimum of 30 passengers.
The African Queen is a triple deck, 70 ft. catamaran, furnished with Rhodesian teak, beech wood and brass finishes. On arrival at the royal landing, you are greeted with a cold cocktail and the sounds of a marimba band. Full bars on both upper and lower decks serve a selection of cocktails and iced drinks and freshly prepared hot and cold snacks. The cruise leaves at 4:30 pm and heads up the Zambezi, past the Mosi-oa-Tunya Game Park. As the sun wanes, you return to the royal landing for dinner.
Cost: US$77 each. This includes transfers from and to the hotel, cruise, all drinks and the meal. On the menu will be cream of tomato soup with freshly-baked holiday rolls, beef fillet in pepper sauce, chicken curry, vegetable curry, salads and vegetable, apple pie, fruit salad with fresh cream, tea and coffee.
Bookings and payments for this will have to be made at least one month in advance, so if you are interested, please contact me or e-mail at <heather AT lowdown.co.zm>.
Saturday, 27th September
On this evening, I am arranging a braai. I haven't finalised the venue yet, but on the menu will be lots of tasty, unadulterated, free-of-steroids steak from cattle raised on good Zambian veld, boerewors, sosaties, pork chops, crocodile tail, chicken, nshima and relish, all cooked on good Zambian malasha (charcoal for those that don't remember what malasha is) and various salads. For dessert there will be fruit salad, melktert and koeksusters. To drink there will be copious quantities of Mosi, Castle, Lion and various wines.
Cost: US$35 and again, I will need payment in advance. Please contact me or e-mail at <heather AT lowdown.co.zm> and I will give you details of how payment should be made.
Accommodation
Below is a list of the places available which are within close proximity of the Falls or in Livingstone itself. I have not included those places which are either up river from the Game Park or those that are way below the Falls. However, if you will have your own transport and would like information on them, please contact me or e-mail at <heather AT lowdown.co.zm>.
Maramba River Lodge is situated about 4 km from the Falls, on the banks of the Maramba River:
- Camping: US$5
- Safari tents: Single, US$20, Double, U$25
- Chalets: Single, US$30, Double, US$40, Triple, US$55, 4-bed family, U$70
Zambezi Waterfront:
- Executive room, bed and breakfast: US$65 per person sharing
- Riverside room, bed and breakfast: US$50 per person sharing
- Family room, bed and breakfast, min 3, max 4: US$30 per person sharing
- Standard room, bed and breakfast: US$40 per person sharing
- Village Tent: US$20 per person sharing
- Campsite: US$5 per person
Nyala Lodge is 7 km from the Falls and consists of 10 en-suite double/twin rooms and one triple unit with interleading doors. All the rooms have unique waterfall showers, mosquito nets and a fan. There is a central bar and a la carte restaurant, a pool and satellite TV in the bar.
- Single room: US$ 40 bed and breakfast
- Double room: US$ 50 bed and breakfast
- Triple room: US$ 70 bed and breakfast
Wasawange: This lodge is in town, on the airport road. Rates are per room and include breakfast.
- Single: US$100
- Double: US$115
- Triple: US$145
Zambezi Sun (Three Star) and Royal Livingstone (Five Star): There are some special deals for South Africans which include airfares. One example includes:
- Return flights Johannesburg-Livingstone return on Nationwide Airlines
- Return transfers
- Three nights weekend accommodation at the Zambezi Sun in a standard room on a bed-and-breakfast basis
- Price per person sharing R4507
- Excludes all departure taxes -- from Durban add R723 per person
Ask your travel agent if they can beat this price, then contact me and I'll pass on the details of Doug Grewar's contact who gave him this information.
Fawlty Towers is at the south end of Livingstone, about 8 km from the Falls. It is more a backpackers place so is pretty basic, but it does have an excellent restaurant.
- Camping: US$5
- Double and twin rooms: US$20 per room
- Double and twin en suite (with own bathroom): US$30 per room
Papagayo Guest House is a guest house located one kilometre from town and 10 km from the Falls. US$15 per person per night.
Geckos Guesthouse (no Web site) is located in town, along Mosi-oa-Tunya Road. They are a self-catering establishment although there is a bar for residents and a swimming pool. All rooms have mosquito nets and fans.
- Double and Twin En-suite: US$25
- Single En-suite: US$18
- Camping: US$3 per person
I have stayed at the first four places (Maramba, Waterfront, Nyala and Wasawange) and can recommend them. I can also recommend the Zambezi Sun and the Royal Livingstone.
As I am still hoping to get better discounts out of the hotels, etc., please can you contact me or e-mail at <heather AT lowdown.co.zm> with your bookings, and I will (initially) do block bookings.
Livingstone Activities
There are a number of activities available in Livingstone, both for the very active and adventurous and for the not-so-active. These activities range from white-water rafting through the rapids below the Falls and bungy jumping off the Victoria Falls Bridge, to the Flight of Angels in a helicopter over the falls or a leisurely boat cruise in the calm waters above the falls.
Here are a few examples of the activities available as well as the approximate price you would be expected to pay. There are many other activities, and one would be able to decide which one was most suitable from the many tour operators' programmes and Web sites produced. Some operators have offered discounts if the bookings are made as a block, so please let me know if you wish to be included in a booking for any of the activities.
- Rafting: Full day approximately US$95, half day approximately US$70
- Canoe trips: Full day approximately US$70, half day approximately US$60
- Game drive: 3 hours approximately US$40
- Sunset cruise: 2.5 hours approximately US$40
- Bungy jump: approximately US$90
- Horse trails: Full day approximately US$85, half day approximately US$65, 1.5 hours approximately US$35
- Elephant back: approximately US$90
- Abseiling: approximately US$80
- Game walk: approximately US$65
- Microlite flights: approximately US$75 to US$115
- Flight of Angels: approximately US$75 to US$150
- Fishing: approximately US$50 to US$100
Here are some Web sites to take a look at on activities available:
If you would like to book for any of these activities, please contact me or e-mail at <heather AT lowdown.co.zm>.
Flights
The easiest, and probably the cheapest, way to fly is via Johannesburg and straight into Livingstone. However, if you are flying to Lusaka, you can then either fly to Livingstone, or if there are sufficient numbers, a bus can be hired. Please contact me or e-mail at <heather AT lowdown.co.zm> with your plans, so that I can get the best deal for bus transfers. Pick ups can be arranged from Livingstone Airport for those flying to Livingstone. Cost of this is in the region of US$15 but some hotels include it in the accommodation. I'm still following a few leads on discounted bookings, but please don't hold your breath waiting for me.
Here is some more information on flights to, from and within Zambia:
Barbara Torrance in the UK can offer members an air fare of £515 (including taxes) London-Lusaka return.
Conditions:
- Minimum of 20 passengers to travel on the same flight to and from Lusaka.
- To guarantee this fare she needs 10% of the fare (£51.50 x 20 = £1030.00).
- 5 weeks prior to departure she needs final commitment -- i.e., the balance of the fare plus full names of passengers.
- Deposits are non-refundable with numbers less than 16.
"I don't want to sound too pushy, BUT to guarantee seats on the flight I need some commitment ASAP." (This comment dated May 22nd.)
If you are interested, please contact me or e-mail at <heather AT lowdown.co.zm> and I will pass your e-mail address onto Barbara. For attendees travelling this route I can arrange a bus from Lusaka to Livingstone. The return fare on this would be US$116 -- flights right now are US$185 return.
From UK to Lusaka: British Airways. This is a direct flight out of Heathrow. Flight duration: approximately 10 hours. Flights leave London on Wednesdays and Saturdays, arriving the following day. Return flights are day flights, leaving here on Thursdays and Sundays, arriving in London around 17 hours later.
From UK via Amsterdam: KLM. There are flights from London and Manchester to Amsterdam. This flight entails a stopover in Nairobi. If you take the day flight from Amsterdam, it will entail a night in Nairobi. The night flight out of Amsterdam connects with the Lusaka flight although the Lusaka flight is often delayed while it waits for the flight from Bombay to come in. I have flown this route many times and generally, the Nairobi/Lusaka sector is pretty empty.
From UK via Johannesburg: If you are flying via Johannesburg I would suggest flying direct to Livingstone from Johannesburg. If you want to travel round the rest of the country, you can then fly out of Lusaka to Johannesburg. Airlines to use to Johannesburg would be British Airways, South African Airways, Air France or KLM. Flight duration between 10 and 12 hours.
From Johannesburg to Livingstone: The airline to use would be Nationwide. They have six return flights a week between Johannesburg and Livingstone. They also have two return flights a week between Johannesburg and Lusaka. They don't have much information on their Web site (in fact they've got bugger all) but if you want to make bookings on their flights let me know and I'll do them through the local office here. The latest advertised fare is US$228 return (Johannesburg/Livingstone).
From Johannesburg into and out of Lusaka: There are flights every day of the week, either on British Airways / Comair or South African Airways. I think there might be another airline as well, but I can't remember the name. However, Lusaka/Johannesburg is well covered.
Johannesburg/Ndola: There are also direct flights between Johannesburg and Ndola if you want to return from Ndola.
From Australia: Qantas and South African Airways have regular flights to Johannesburg from Perth.
From the USA: South African Airways fly directly to Johannesburg from Atlanta and New York. I'm not sure which American airlines fly to Jo'burg.
Lusaka/Livingstone: There are internal flights between Lusaka and Livingstone on Zambian Airways. Current fare is US$185 return and flights are on Fridays and Sundays. Charter flights are also possible and I understand that it is possible to fly Nationwide between the two towns.
Lusaka/Copperbelt: Zambian Airways also fly between Lusaka Ndola. Monday - Friday there are two flights a day (morning and evening) and one flight a day on Saturdays and Sundays. Fare is US$185 return.
Lusaka/Luangwa: For those wishing to visit Luangwa, Zambian Airways fly to Mfuwe Fare US$285 return, flights on Wednesday, Friday, Sunday. Airwaves fly on Wednesday, Friday, Sunday. The latest advertised return fare Lusaka/Mfuwe is US$255 or US$180 if booked 30 days in advance.
Visas
If you are planning to come to Zambia, you probably need a visa. Certainly Brits, Australians, Canadians and New Zealanders now need visas. South Africans do not need visas.
More information on visas can be obtained from the Web site of the Zambian High Commission in London or from the Web site of the Zambian embassy in Washington DC.
Please note that if you are coming via South Africa, the South Africans require that you have at least two blank pages in your passport for their visa. If you do not, you will be sent home.
Airport Departure Tax
Please remember that there is a US$20 departure tax from all airports in Zambia. I suggest that if possible you carry this amount with you. All foreigners must pay this in foreign exchange and if you pay in sterling or rand, they will undoubtedly not have the correct change.
Travel Insurance
Steve Batchelor reminded me that I have not included anything on travel insurance. He recommends the Travel Doctor Web site for information on health and travel insurance.
I would certainly recommend that you have insurance which includes evacuation by air. We insure locally through a company called Specialty Emergency Services (no Web site) who are extremely efficient and linked with many international organisations. What I suggest is that shortly before you arrive (or if you have the information immediately available) you send me details of your insurance policy. I will then pass this on to SES who will get all the guarantees in place in advance. This can save valuable time in the event that you need evacuation as they can call the aircraft in immediately.
To Drive or to Fly?
I don't remember exactly when Jim Churchill was here, but I suspect it was before the rebuilding of the road between Zimba and Monze had been completed. As at today, the road conditions are as follows, using the World Bank classification of roads (good, fair, bad):
- Livingstone - Zimba (approximately 70 km): The odd pothole, but classified as fair.
- Zimba - Monze: Good, having recently been rebuilt.
- Monze - Chilanga: Good.
- Chilanga - Lusaka: This is still classified as fair although a few potholes have formed with the heavy rain we have experienced over the last month. However, yesterday they were on the road fixing them.
- Lusaka - Chisamba: Good, but with the odd pothole between 50 and 70 km from Lusaka.
- Chisamba - Kabwe: Good.
- Kabwe - Kapiri: Road is currently being rebuilt so there are some detours. In some places, the new road will have been opened.
- Kapiri - Ndola/Kitwe/Chingola: Good but don't use the Fisenge Bypass -- that road is abysmal.
- Kapiri - Mpika: Good.
- Mpika northwards: Still good although the road is subsiding in some places.
- Mpika - Kasama: Work is being undertaken on this road except it should be finished by September, but even with the work being done, the road is still in good condition.
- Serenje - Mansa: Good.
- Lusaka - Kafue Game Park: There is a bad stretch of approximately 60 km but work is being done on this road. I shall probably be going to Mongu next week, so will be able to give you a first hand account.
- Kafue Hook Bridge - Mongu: Fair to good from what I understand.
- Lusaka - Siavonga turnoff: Fair to good.
- Siavonga turnoff to Siavonga: Good, having just been rebuilt.
- Lusaka - Petauke: Good.
- Petauke - Chipata: About 60 km is bad.
The roads in the towns vary -- some are good, some are horrendous, but generally the highly trafficked roads are good.
There are advantages and disadvantages to driving but I feel it is unfair to advise not to drive because of road conditions. The biggest disadvantage of driving is the police road blocks, but I will give you some tips on how to deal with those -- it's all in your attitude. If you arrive in Lusaka by the Thursday, you can drive down in convoy with me that day. It's a very pleasant drive, takes about five hours, but you will see the Kafue River, the Munali Hills, Nakambala and all the little towns along the way. There are also a few pleasant places to stay en route if you want to break your journey. The distance between Lusaka and Livingstone is only 493 km, so it is a pleasant easy drive.
Car Hire
Car hire bookings can be done on-line at Avis There are some other local car hire companies -- if you are considering this, please let me know and I'll let you have the information.
Car Hire is available from Voyagers Rentals (e-mail carrental@voyagers.com.zm).
For example, a Toyota Corolla 1.3 without air conditioning would cost US$33 per day and US$0.30 per kilometre for 7-14 days (self drive). They also have a combination rate which allows 150 km free per day with any additional distance being subject to their standard rate charge (US$63 per day for 7-14 days, self drive).
Insurance options are:
- CDW limited cover: $10 per day
- CDW full cover: $17 per day
- TLW limited cover: $5 per day
- TLW full cover: $9 per day
The above rates are exclusive of 17.5% VAT. An international driving licence is required and payment can be made by Visa or MasterCard.
Where Else to go in Zambia
There are hundreds of places to go and things to do and I don't have the time to type up all this information. In other words, tell me what you want to do and I'll give you advice and assist you with bookings, contact details, etc.
Copperbelt: For those who will be visiting the Copperbelt there are a number of guest houses in Ndola, Kitwe and Chingola.
Lusaka/Chisamba: Lusaka is also adequately catered for with a wide range of accommodation available. There is also a very nice up-market lodge in Chisamba as well as a few other guest houses which are more than adequate.
Other places to visit are Luangwa, Kafue Game Park, Shiwa Ng'andu, Siavonga, Lower Zambezi, Lake Tanganyika. I suggest you take a look at the Zambia National Tourist Board Web site or contact me with your ideas and I'll give you my recommendations.
Please also contact me or e-mail at <heather AT lowdown.co.zm> with information on the other places in Zambia that you would like to visit so that I can let you have all the information that you need.
Credit Cards
Can you use plastic out here? Yes, you can use plastic (Visa, Executive, MasterCard, American Express, Diners, Euro), but we still use mostly cash. Most hotels accept credit cards, and you can always change cash at the bureaus or banks. However, some bureaus don't accept euros yet.
Malaria
Malaria is obviously a concern. This was part of the reason why I shifted the date from April to September, because there is less malaria around after the cold weather than there would be in April. However, it is possible to avoid it.
- Check with your doctor regarding prophylactics and take them religiously. One word of caution here -- should your doctor prescribe Larium, please ask them about "Larium-induced psychosis". This is a serious issue.
- Mosquito repellent: Very important. There are a number of repellents available, but the best is still straight, plain citronella oil -- even though you smell of oranges, no mosquito comes anywhere near you. Make sure that you apply this at around 5:30 pm again, after you take a shower or bath, and again before you go to bed. Also make sure you apply it to any exposed part of your body.
- Mosquito nets: All hotels have mosquito nets. Use them.
- Vape mats: These are very effective or, if you are camping, then mosquito coils. Also very effective.
- Air conditioning or electric fans (especially ceiling fans) are also very effective.
- It doesn't do any harm to spray your room once a day either.
Using all or even some of these (definitely 1 and 2 above) will give you more than adequate protection. I have immunity to the malaria in the Lusaka area, but am at risk when I travel to other places. (I do not take any prophylactics and neither do I sleep under a mosquito net). The only time I catch malaria is if I am slapgat about putting the repellent on.
Steve Batchelor also has this to say about malaria: A drug called Malarone seems to work well -- little or no side effects, but is new, so a bit expensive, around £50 for a two-week course. Might be worth mentioning that Larium (mentioned above) is a brand name -- the medical term is Mefloquine, so people should watch out for that too.
Updates
Considering how much information is on this page, updates will be noted here so that you don't have to read the whole page every time I add some information to it.
October 17th, 2003:
July 12th, 2003:
June 9th, 2003:
- Added some more information on local car hire.
June 7th, 2003:
May 23rd, 2003:
- Added information about air fares for a group of at least 20 from London to Lusaka.
April 6th, 2003:
|
